While I try to avoid or minimize service call fees, there are some times where they apply. If I have to spend time opening up your piece, say a recliner, to determine the issue before quoting the repair there is a $40.00 fee to do this. If I have to make a trip to your home to determine what parts to order before I can make a repair there is also a $40 - $60 fee to do this.

Depending upon how far your are from my shop the pick up and delivery fee varies from free if you are within 10 miles up to as much as $100.00.

My workmanship is guaranteed for 12 months from the date of payment. I cannot guarantee the materials purchased to do your job beyond that of the manufacturer. There are times when original replacement parts are not available

Whenever possible I will give you a fixed price to do the work before you authorize me to start. If I have to make repairs which are relatively unique to your chair – for instance a broken frame on a couch – I work at an hourly rate but I also provide my best guess as to the cost before I start the work.

I can give you a ball park estimate but I do not provide afirm quote without seeing the piece first hand. There are often subtle details not visible on the photo (through no fault of yours) that can make a big difference in the work required to make the repair.

I do not do any upholstery work other that the small amount needed to make repairs to your upholstered piece. I can recommend companies who can help you with that work.

I do not refinish large table tops or other big pieces of furniture. My Prius is my truck and it defines the size of a piece I can refinish.

Yes, within limits. If the scratches are shallow and do not penetrate the original finish I can usually polish them out. It they are deeper, I can touch them up which is usually satisfactory on the sides or edges.

But deep scratches, or other more severe damage on table tops are a challenge and will always be slightly visible unless the entire top is refinished.But I can makea big improvement at a fraction of the cost of refinishing the entire top.

Antiques and older pieces require more care than the repair to a broken chair leg because much of the beauty is in the wood, workmanship and finish of the piece. Careful selection of woods and grain are required if any replacement parts are needed. Unless severely damaged, I try not to strip and refinish a piece, and then I try to use the original finish materials. As a rule, less is better and usually a good cleaning, touch up and re-fresh of the existing finish works wonders. Hardware may be very difficult or impossible to replace. As a rule, less is better and a good cleaning, touch up and refresh of the finish will makea great difference.

1) Wipe up all liquid spills immediately. Water or wine sitting on the surface for more than a few minutes (even 5 minutes) can be too long on some finishes. Then clean the area (if the spill was something other than water) with plain water and dry thoroughly. Use coasters, not napkins, under glasses.

2) If you must put a plant on the table, put the pot on a ceramic plate that is absolutely water proof. To water the plant, take the plant off the plate and water it somewhere else. Let the pot drain thoroughly and wipe to bottom before returning the pot to the plate.

3) Clean off food and other spills promptly – do not let the goop dry on your piece; it may stain the finish.

4) Hot plates, irons etc will discolor your finish – use pads or better yet let nothing hotter than room temperature sit on the table.

5) If you use nail polish or nail polish remover, plan on ruining the finish (it will spill), or use it on a table you do not care about.

6) There is nothing better than a room full of sunshine, but its bad news for your furniture. Although it takes month or years, the sun will fade and ultimately destroy the finish. Any really valuable piece should be placed where it gets only indirect sun at the most. For the piece under the window, wax it frequently and hope for the best. If you put a table cloth on it, make sure it covers the entire top. If you don’t, the finish around it will fade but not the finish under it and you will see it difference when you remove the cloth.

Forced air heating is great too, nothing like a nice warm room on a cold day. But it dries your furniture out, and this can lead to weak joints and warped pieces. Less of a concern that the sun, don’t put your nice antiques right over or too near the heating vent.

I recommend cleaning your furniture with a cloth dampened with a light mixture of dish soap and water. Use a little elbow grease - never solvents - to get off grease and other things stuck to your furniture. Then wipe with a clean moist cloth to remove any soap residue and dry thoroughly. Water won’t hurt if you do this quickly and dry it quickly – 5 – 10 minutes maximum. Do this as needed.

Then use a carnuba paste wax (available at good hardware stores). Wipe it on, let it dry a few minutes and give it a good buff. I put a pair of old heavy socks on my hands and give the piece a good massage. It will glow, and repel water. Do this at least every few months. Furniture oils may make your piece look nice, but the dust builds up in the oil and as it dries it leaves a nice grey film on your piece.